I was at Hereford ;)

Yes, I can post his picture, and yes, I can give his name, but mustn't mention who he worked for in 1979. He is happy for us to know he was in special forces (though not which), and that he was based in Hereford, but I mustn't say which wall he abseiled down, in what operation.

Lance is the security guard who began my education in Alice's attitude to Aboriginies. Have you noticed a smell and the flies around here? Those fellas never wash. The government gives them houses and they trash them, and they have a nicer car than me, but all they do is get drunk and bother people.

For all that, Lance is likeable. He is sincere. And I didn't detect any hate in him, nor even prejudice, surprisingly. Lance is a man in the front line. They are from a different culture, he says, you can't give them houses and just expect them to want to be like us. You don't go into someone else's house and tell them how to behave.

This morning on  the terrace at breakfast I had the deeply unpleasant experience of being accused of being a racist by a very earnest young man, who got up and refused to sit with me any longer, because I had attempted to get inside the head of someone like Lance. It is probably wise not to attempt to come to Australia with European views and attempt to suggest that there might be a grey area in what is a very highly charged subject, here.

Leith and June

Leith and June were obviously together. I asked; I am very direct. But why should anyone be offended, anyway. You are obviously not gay, said Leith (pink), later. Why not? I asked.

Because you would have said. But then flattered me by saying that when she had first felt she could approach me, she'd thought I probably was.

I was on a path through woods, parallel to the beach, when she asked if it was a public walkway. I thought it was. But it went through the grounds of a High school. She taught there 35 years ago.

(I told her, I am going to get the details wrong! She asked if she could check the copy. She was an English teacher, she said. No, it is better if the piece records my impressions. If the facts are wrong, it really doesn't matter.)

My first impression was of a mature couple, who love each other and are as devoted as Angie and H. I told them about Aunt Leila and Isobel who were teachers before the war and thought to be two spinsters sharing expenses - and may yet have been no more than that, though I hope I am wrong. We talked about Beth and about her friends here in Darwin. And we talked about education and politics and about how teaching isn't what it was, either here or in the UK.

Leith and June have a boat and pick up. June is a great 4-wheel driver and Leith is the owner-skipper of their 23' yacht, which they have invited me to join them on. Leith owns it jointly with her ex-husband. They have three grown up children. I said about Beth coming out when she was married, too. For Leith it was something like 30 years ago. Her children were cool about it (if anyone calls you a poof, mum, I will beat them up )

Apparently, I am going to be marrying Leith's daughter, though she is currently serving divorce papers and involved with a cultist. She'd like me, Leith says. She needs an uncomplicated relationship with an open man. 

Like someone who lives across the world, I say.

Coco and the cow in the tree

On the way to the Williamstown ferry, I stopped to get a five dollar pie at Dinkum pies and was greeted by two women with the very cheeriest of smiles. Williamstown?....My parents were married in Williamstown, in a cafe, said the younger of the two, who I correctly took for a trainee. Coco, 19 (well actually, twenty in a  month) was born in Melbourne to an Australian dad and a South American mum. She worked last year as an au pair for a French/Belgian family in London, staying with them in Greenwich, a place she loved. She will shortly be starting a training in nursing/ midwifery. But for now she says she loves the pie shop.

Coco's boss is Natasha, 31, who says she likes to give customers the kind of welcome she'd like to receive. She told me that Australians are friendly. This was not national pride boasting , for Natasha is from New Zealand. She has been here a year and a day. I was particularly intrigued by a tattoo of  an all-black airliner on her upper arm, pointing down towards her elbow - and almost like an Aboriginal bird image? As Coco talked, Natasha kept a tactful but supervising distance, moving stacks of chairs in off the street; casting occasional smiles, especially when Coco gets most passionate.

Coco made conversation as she tidied the cafe up for the 3p.m. closing, which is normal with the company (I didn't ask why). Have you seen the cow in the tree?  I wished Natsha would show me it, but knew she was closing to go to an appointment.

Coco's dad would know what this is all about and who designed it, as he is an urban designer, she told me. As I drank my coffee I asked if she'd mind being my blog subject for the day, and then she jumped on to the stool opposite me and told me what makes her tick.

Coco is a Dr Who fan. She really knows her stuff. It wasn't that Matt Smith was a bad Dr, it is that Steven Moffatt's writing wasn't very good that series. She loves the Weeping Angels, and she tells me that fans believe that when Dr Who eventually dies he will become one of those angels. It isn't an official back-story, she explains. She starts to lose me at this point. It is something she called Head story, or it isn't the Head story; I am not quite sure what that is all about. Coco clearly does, though. And she likes fan fiction, but doesn't write it. Are you my mummy? - we say in sync - Jinx! (and Coco is now scared of gasmasks - and Natasha says it all scares her; she doesn't watch).  And Coco is mad about Daleks.

aaaaaand we're back! Only, now I am in Australia. People are far friendlier here, so there really is no excuse for not getting into lots of conversations.